Tuesday, 6 May 2014

Caramel cake

Caramel is one of my favourite sweet flavours. I had been thinking about how to make a caramel cake for quite a while. Research on the interweb shows that they are quite popular in America but it seems to be more about a plain cake with icing: not particularly interesting or inspiring.

I had also recently learnt the rules about substituting oil for butter in cakes to allow different flavour profiles and I thought a caramel cake would be the perfect way to try out my own oil cake recipe.

To make my "ultimate" caramel cake, I baked two different cakes, one vanilla and one caramel (using muscovado sugar). These were then split into three and layered with three different types of icing. The combination of icings was determined by a taste test at work a few days ago. A lunch time activity which my work pals were more than happy to participate in. I even had some of the cake trimmings with me to help out.

The final cake looked like this (unfortunately I don't have a cross-section).


The cake was amazing. I would go so far as to say it was possibly the best cake I have ever made. The caramel cake had a really rich deep flavour. The slight bitterness from one of the icings worked really well as a foil to the sweetness. The plain sponge cake also provided contrast for the other flavours to work against. Overall the cake tasted of a rich caramel providing a long, rounded and satisfying mouthful with each bite and crucially it wasn't too sweet. The decorative sugar shards provided a textural contrast although they didn't last long in the warmth of the office.

Anyway, on to the recipe. Be warned there are six different components in this cake: two cakes, three types of icing and the sugar shards. It's a lengthy undertaking but one which, I think, is well worth it.

Caramel cake recipe

Ingredients:
For the vanilla sponge:
2 eggs
4oz butter
4oz plain flour
4oz caster sugar
1tsp baking powder
1tsp vanilla extract
For the caramel sponge:
2 eggs
90.4g flavourless oil e.g. sunflower
22.8g milk
4oz dark muscovado sugar
1tsp baking powder
4oz plain flour
Pinch of salt
Filling icing 1 (taken from Bay Area Bites recipe):
2 cups caster sugar
1/2 cup water
2oz butter
30ml double cream
5oz icing sugar
1tsp vanilla extract
pinch salt
Filling icing 2 (taken from Scrumpdillyicious's recipe):
1/4cup light brown sugar
10tbsp butter
1/3cup double cream
8oz cream cheese
1/2tsp vanilla extract
1 3/4 cup icing sugar
External frosting (taken from My Recipes):
1oz butter, melted
1 3/4oz dark brown sugar
2-4tbsp milk
1dsp vanilla extract
135g icing sugar
Caramel shards, to decorate (taken from Ricardo Cuisine):
60 ml water
20og sugar
1.5oz  butter
1/2tsp salt
1/2tsp baking soda

Method:
1. Start be making the vanilla sponge. Cream together the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy.
2. Beat in the eggs one by one, alternating with a little flour, and then beat in the vanilla extract.
3. Sieve the flour and baking powder into the mix and fold in.
4. Split the batter between three 8" lined cake tins and bake at 180°C for about 10mins until cooked through. You'll need to keep a watchful eye to check that the edges don't go crisp before the middle is cooked.
5. To make the caramel sponge whisk together the wet ingredients: eggs, oil and milk.
6. Sieve the flour, baking powder and salt into a mixing bowl and mix with the muscovado sugar.
7. Combine the wet and dry ingredients, whisking only just enough to combine them.
8. Split the batter between three 8" lined cake tins and bake at 180°C for about 10mins until cooked through. You'll need to keep a watchful eye to check that the edges don't go crisp before the middle is cooked.
9. For filling icing 1, a caramel syrup is required. In a large heavy-bottomed pan mix the water and sugar until the mixture feels like wet sand.
10. Heat the pan on maximum until the syrup is smoking slightly and has a dark amber colour. (this may be as high as 190°C).
NB The aim is to create a slightly bitter syrup. This is crucial to offset the sweetness of the cake.
11. Carefully pour in one cup of water and whisk over medium heat until the syrup has reduced slightly and feels sticky between two fingers. (Obviously wait for it to cool on a spoon before touching it!)
12. To make the icing make a beurre noisette by cooking the butter until it is brown. Sieve into a bowl and aside to cool.
13. Beat the brown butter with until smooth and then ad in the icing sugar gradually alternating with the cream or caramel syrup. Repeat until all the sugar, syrup and cream has been incorporated and the mixture is smooth. Add salt to taste.
14. For filling icing 2, gently warm the brown sugar and 4 tbsp butter together until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil over medium heat and remove from the heat.
15. Whisk in the cream until well combined. Transfer to a heat-resistant bowl and allow to cool, stirring occasionally.
16. Beat the remaining butter until soft and smooth. Beat in the cream cheese, vanilla and salt until smooth.
17. Slowly beat in the cooled brown sugar mixture (an electric whisk helps here) until smooth. Add the icing sugar gradually, beating well after each addition until completely smooth. Chill slightly for a firmer texture, stirring occasionally.
18. For the external icing, melt the butter over a medium heat.
19. Add the brown sugar and 2 tablespoons of milk. Cook for 1 minute or until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat; cool slightly.
20. Combine the butter mixture and 2 vanilla in a large bowl. Gradually beat in the icing sugar; beat with a until smooth. Add additional milk, 1 teaspoon at a time, as required until spreading consistency.
21. To make the decorative caramel shards, bring the water, sugar, butter, and salt to a boil. Cook until the mixture caramelises and take on a golden brown colour.
22. Remove from the heat immediately and stir in the baking soda with a whisk. Quickly pour on to a baking sheet lined with silicon sheet. Spread the caramel in a thin layer and cool completely. Once cold, break the caramel into long pieces.
23. To assemble, put one of the caramel sponges on the bottom of the serving board. Spread one third of filling icing 1 over the cake. Place one of the vanilla cakes on top and spread half of filling icing 2 over the top. Repeat these layers, alternating cakes and icings until all six cakes have been used and five layers or icing have been spread (see diagram below).
24. Slather the cake with a thin layer of the external frosting (a crumb layer) and refrigerate until solid. Use the rest of the frosting to cover the cake liberally. Decorate with shards of caramel.

Wednesday, 2 April 2014

FarmDrop

I've fancied the idea of a veg box for a while but never actually round to sorting it out (I think I have either been put off by the price or the lack of a suitable delivery time/location).

FarmDrop takes the veg box to another level. It provides a pick-up point for produce from local farms and producers. Essentially it's a "supermarket" but without the middle-men. Everything will be local and seasonal (no strawberries in December here!) available to be bought once a week. It might be the just the thing for me.I'll keep track and see if one gets set up reasonably near me...

Tuesday, 4 March 2014

Edible Experiences

I stumbled upon Edible Experiences today and then instantly wondered why I have only just found out about it now.

It's basically a listing of food and drink related events and activities in and around London village.
Whether you're looking for a cooking, baking or butchery class; a tasting, foraging expedition, or supperclub or pop up, our hosts have something to tickle your tastebuds. Have a browse around. We hope something tempts!

It includes all sorts of classes, talks, tasting and supperclubs. Clearly I will be investigating with vigour. There's no need for there to be another dull moment!

La Polenteria

Last night we popped into La Polenteria for a quick pre-comedy gig dinner.

I love polenta but even so I  don't make it as often as I could. It is normally compared to mashed potato which is a reasonable comparison but it seems a bit more sophisticated than that to me. The USP of La Polenteria is that every dish contains polenta. I was excited to find out if they could pull off such a menu: would it be too restrictive or would it serve as a platform for unbridled creativity?

We started off with some of the polentini or "polenta bites". Three small slabs of grilled polenta serving as vessels for typically delicious Italian toppings. Our favourite was the gorgonzola and walnut combination.We were off to a good start.

For main there was no way I could resist the wild boar ragu with wet polenta. The wet polenta wasn't as wet I was expecting but it didn't really matter .It was delicious. The ragu had a real depth of flavour and the polenta working in harmony as a comforting partner.

On a dank March evening this was perfect comfort food. Once I had finished, I wanted more even. None of the desserts appealed which was good because I was stuffed.

It's a small restaurant with a rustic wooden and metal interior. The tables are very close together but that can be forgiven in such a small Soho location. By the time we came to pay the bill the place was almost full, mostly it seemed with Italians. Surely a good sign?

Unfortunately, the service was less than to be desired: it was less than attentive. Long gaps between courses and Having asked for the bill we were ignored for what seemed like an eternity especially frustrating when you've got a show to go and see. 

I'd definitely go back. I'll be interesting to see how they develop the menu for the summer months. I'll make sure I've got nowhere to be afterwards though.

La Polenteria on Urbanspoon

Friday, 21 February 2014

The Bombe?

Last weekend I had a conversation about an alternative to trifle, which lead to the invention of the Swiss-roll, jelly, Angel Delight (or S-JAD) bombe.

Given that I had some time on my hands today and access to all the required elements I just had to give it a go.

Firstly, I covered a large glass bowl in cling film and packed two raspberry Swiss roll-worth of slices tightly in.

Next, I made up a strawberry jelly using just half the recommended amount of water. The jelly was to be the mortar of my cakey igloo, so I needed it to have the requisite structural integrity. This was poured over the Swiss-roll slices.

I swathed a desert bowl in cling film and weighted it down on the jelly, forcing the liquid up the sides of the bowl. I left this in place whilst he jelly set in the refrigerator.


Once the jelly had set, I removed the dessert bowl and poured in a strawberry Angel Delight. Again it was left to set.

I managed to turn the whole thing out onto a serving dish. I was a little disappointed that it didn't quite hold it's shape as well as I has hoped. The first thing that comes to mind is The Blob, obviously.


I'm not sure the end result was quite worth the effort. Quite simply it tasted like jellified Swiss-roll with Angel Delight. Not quite the off-the-shelf gastronomic delight I had dreamed of. Still as they say, "nothing ventured, nothing gained".

Friday, 7 February 2014

Baked Alaska

The old work gang of Hammers came over tonight, for what turned out to be, a very civilised Friday evening. 

It was styled as the first part of a Come Dine With Me quadrilogy. I'd planned a pretty good seasonal three courses:

Jerusalem artichoke soup
***
Roast chicken with all the trimmings
***
Baked Alaska

It all went rather well. The soup bought a hush to the dining room for the first time since everyone arrived. A good sign.

The roast chicken was also well received. Quite an accomplishment for a Friday night post-work affair, I thought given that not only was a chicken roasted it was accompanied by roast potatoes (obviously), lemon carrots, purple-sprouting broccoli and celeriac purée. I even managed to make a decent gravy from the roasting juices, which is a first for me.

However, clearly the most interesting part of the evening (well for me anyway) was the dessert of baked Alaska. Given the fact that the whole gang seemed to have given up the ghost and decanted to the sofa to adjust their waist bands and digest, I wasn't entirely sure I was going to get the chance to make it. It would have been a tad frustrating having been up the night before making the sponge base, roasting the rhubarb and defrosting egg whites. Thankfully sense, or was it just plain greed, prevailed.


This is a pud of contrasts. The light ginger sponge as the base, which had a delicate warmth, worked well with the fruity rhubarb. The sweet meringue was offset by the tartness of rhubarb. The combination of temperatures and textures worked remarkably well.

I was going to make a separate orange sauce to accompany it but held-off as it seemed that that might just push everyone over the edge.

I'm not sure there's much of a recipe to give for the Baked Alaska, it's more of an assembly job, unless you're making all the individual components. What I did was make an 8" Victoria sponge (using the usual 2444 mix) with a teaspoon of ground ginger. I used my usual recipe to roast about a pound of forced rhubarb.

Just before assembly I made the meringue. Four egg white were whisked until stiff then 7oz of caster sugar gradually added until the meringue was glossy and stiff. To assemble, the cake base was first put on a roasting tray. The juices from the rhubarb were brushed over the cake then the rhubarb spread all over in a single layer. Next softened vanilla ice-cream was piled on. (You should really put it back in the freezer for 10 minutes or so before doing anything else.). The the meringue was slathered over everything making sure that there were no gaps. The pud was then baked for 10mins at 200°C until brown. (I used a blow torch to add some extra depth of colour).

You have to serve this pretty quickly. It also needs easting all in one go, so make sure you've got plenty of people around who are still hungry! (Mind you I did toy with making individual ones, which may have been more elegant and slightly less extravagant.)

PS. This is what my dinner the following night, made with the left-overs, looked like. It was just as tasty especially with the potatoes and chicken  fried in goose fat...

Sunday, 2 February 2014

My first fruit cake

Today I delivered my first ever fruit cake. I know. I was as surprised as you when I realised I hadn't ever made a fruit cake before.

I didn't really know where to begin for a recipe. There seems to be some quite a lot of dull recipes that basically just mix fruit and a load of flour - no wonder they are "heavy". Remarkably the recipes are incredibly similar. There also seemed to be some variation between a fruit cake and a Christmas cake, with the latter having a much more interesting set of ingredients. (Why can't you have a "Christmas" fruit cake any time of the year?) I stumbled upon a recipe for ale cake and since I wanted a cake that had more than a hint of booze (it was for my friend's dad as a thank-you for some no longer used bake-ware) this is what I went with.


It turned out very well. The fruit was incredibly juicy, (as well they should be having absorbed half a pint of ale!) leading to a very moist cake. It had a complexity and deepness to it that was remarkable. The topping was a sweet hit that served to break up the homogeneity of the cake very well. Ultimately it could be described as very satisfying!


Recipe for Ale Cake (adapted from Women's hour)

Ingredients:
For the cake:
225g raisins
225g sultanas
350g currants
75g citrus peel
250ml strong English ale
225g butter
225g dark brown muscovado sugar
1 tablespoon black treacle
4 eggs
225g plain flour
1tsp baking powder
1 tsp mixed spice
Zest of one lemon
For the icing:
75ml evaporated milk
3oz caster sugar
Egg yolk
1.5oz butter
1/2tsp vanilla extract
1oz dessicated coconut
2oz mixed fruit and nuts, chopped

Method:
1. In a large bowl, steep the fruits and the citrus peel in the ale, leaving it for at least 24 hours, stirring occasionally.
2. In a separate bowl, cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, beat in the treacle and then slowly add the eggs
3. Fold in the flour and spice, until thoroughly mixed together.
4. Stir in the steeped fruits
5. Pile the mixture into a greased and lined 8" round cake tin.
6. Bake in the centre of the oven for one hour at 160°C (the original recipe states 180°C but this is too high and leads to the cake getting far too brown too quickly). Reduce the temperature to 120°C for a further 2 hours or until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out cleanly. Leave to cool.
7. For the icing mix the milk, egg yolk, sugar, butter and vanilla extract in a small pan over a low heat. Stir continuously until the mixture thickens, approx. 12 mins.
8. Remove from the heat.
9. Beat in the fruit and nuts and coconut. Continue until the mixture has cooled and thickened to a spreading consistency.
10. Slather all over the cool cake and allow to cool completely.

NB. The cake can be stored before being iced. To store wrap first in baking paper then in foil and place in an air-tight container.
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