We had a pretty good feeding and were contemplating something sweet to finish things off. Nothing leapt off the menu apart from the mysterious Brodn Derby. There wasn't a hint as to what this could be. Naturally one had to be ordered.
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The life and times of a gastronaut in training...
elBulli takes a step forward
During his speech today at the Madrid Fusion Summit, Ferran Adrià has outlined the action plan of elBulli for the years 2010-2020.
In 2012 elBulli will celebrate 50 years since its conception, so Ferran Adrià and Juli Soler have decided to commemorate this anniversary with the closure of one cycle and the beginning of a new phase, in which a radical approach to the creative process and the pursuit of new challenges and stimulus will be the main priority.
Based on this approach, the agenda of elBulli for the coming years will be the following one:
1) In 2010, elBulli will open from 15th June until 20th December.
2) The opening calendar of elBulli for 2011 will be released during September 2010.
3) elBulli will remain closed to the public during 2012 and 2013. This period will be devoted to thinking, planning and preparing the new format for subsequent years:
a. In consequence, this will allow elBulli to have two creative centres: elBullitaller, currently located on Portaferrissa Street in Barcelona, and elBullirestaurant itself in Cala Montjoi.
b. During this time all the know-how about elaborations, techniques and styles acquired after 30 years of creative research will be analysed, and the results of said work will be compiled in a comprehensive and thorough encyclopaedia.
4) elBulli will open again in 2014, constantly challenging the possibilities of the concept of a restaurant, based on the following criteria:
a. Research will be prioritized over production.
b. Each season will be different in terms of opening dates and times, capacity of the restaurant in terms of diners, staff, etc.., going beyond the pursuit of innovation that elBulli has been undertaking ever since the decision was made, among other things, to open only for 6 months, offer only one sitting per day and cancel the standard menu.
As a starter we both had the soup of the day which was Jerusalem artichoke. Now, the last time I had this soup was at Eight at The Thatch (the original winners of Raymond Blanc's The Restaurant, but now just The Thatch) and it was phenomenal: a delicious and luxurious rich bowl of earthy soup. What I had tonight bore no resemblance to the soup I was expecting in any way what so ever, except maybe the colour. The soup was bland and immediately forgettable. And whoever thought adding shavings of raw (maybe they were blanched) artichoke as a garnish needs to think that through. There's nothing I love more than a mouthful of soup and having to crunch through a slice of raw Jerusalem artichoke.
On to the mains and I had the Denham Estate venison burger, admittedly it was cooked perfectly as a rare burger and tasted wonderful. However, my fries were not cooked all the way through, my second case of raw tuber. Also the burger was served with cranberry sauce. I can see the merit in the idea, but the sauce they gave me was sweet enough to serve with a dessert; it had no place as a garnish for a wonderful burger.
My fellow diner had the Billingsgate fish pie. When it arrived it looked promising: a deep bowl of steaming comfort food. However, once she got through the mash topping and through the dense layer of salmon the remainder of the pie was filled with an overcooked fish pap: woeful.
All in all a terrible meal, and only just deserving of the £10 I paid (as well as another £3 for a glass of lemonade!). However, the evening was saved by the front of house and the delicious bread selection: slices of warm doughy carbohydrate heaven flavoured with rosemary or raisins: yummy!
Two of us were there on the London Evening Standard Reader Offer:
We're delighted to announce the return of our exclusive offer from D&D London.
Readers can have a set-price lunch or dinner at a great selection of top restaurants for £10, £15, £20, £25 or £30 per person. Some of the menus also include a glass of wine or Piper-Heidsieck Champagne.
You can dine as often as you like until Friday 12 February 2010.
Unfortunately I wasn't in to sample a fresh piece of the winning cinnamon crumble apple cake, but I did get a piece of the reject "dry" cake. Jo ended up making two cakes because she wasn't happy with the first. Then once that had all gone she'd brought in the second!
However, the cake was still excellent with a good thick layer of tart apple and a delightful combination of textures due to the crumble top.
Recipe (c/o waitrose)
Jo's Cinnamon Apple Crumble cake (taken from Waitrose)
Ingredients:
3 small eating apples
2 tsp ground cinnamon
250g caster sugar
250g pack Lurpak Butter Slightly Salted
250g self-raising flour
4 medium eggs
Method:
1. Preheat the oven to 180°C, gas mark 4. Grease and line the base of a 23cm round, deep cake tin.
2. Peel, core and thinly slice the apples, toss in 1 tsp of the cinnamon and set aside.
3. To make the crumble topping, measure 50g each of the caster sugar, butter and flour into a bowl. Add the remaining cinnamon and rub everything together with your fingertips until it forms a rough crumble. Set aside.
4. Put the remaining sugar and the eggs in a large bowl and use an electric whisk to mix together. Whisk for about 10 minutes until the mixture is pale and thick, and leaves a trail on the surface when the whisk blades are lifted.
5. Melt the remaining butter in a pan, cool slightly, then drizzle into the whisked mixture, folding it in carefully to preserve as much air as possible.
6. Sieve the flour over the top and fold in.
7. Turn the mixture into the cake tin and scatter the apple slices evenly over the top. Sprinkle the crumble over and bake for 50-55 minutes, until the cake is firm to the touch and golden brown.
8. Allow to cool for 10 minutes in the tin.
Cook's tips
The key to success with this cake is to whisk the eggs and sugar for long enough for them to hold the butter and flour crumble in suspension. Don't be tempted to rush this stage. Check that there is a trail on the surface of the egg mixture when you lift the whisk, before adding the other ingredients.
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